Turkey’s stance threatens doner kebab sales in Germany

According to The Telegraph, Turkey’s attempt to gain legal protection for the traditional doner recipe could “end the future of Germany’s favorite fast food.”

German cooks prepare doner with beef wrapped in flatbread, often with a side of raw cabbage. However, according to Turkish rules, the dish can only be prepared with chicken, lamb and beef from an animal that is at least 18 months old. In this case, the meat should be marinated in yogurt and herbs.

“Doner belongs to Germany. “Everyone must decide for themselves how to cook and eat it here,” said German Minister of Food and Agriculture Cem Oezdemir.

In April 2024, Turkey applied to register its version of the doner kebab as a “guaranteed traditional food” (GTG), which would give it the same legal protection as French champagne and other global brands.

That same month, the Association of German Döner Manufacturers filed a formal complaint with the EU, noting that the street food recipe had “undergone significant development in Germany” and that Turkey’s restrictions would hinder further gastronomic innovation.

According to The Economist, in September this year the European Commission gave Germany and Turkey six months to reach a compromise on the question of “who will decide what is considered a donor.”

If Brussels sides with Ankara, German chefs will be forced to cook according to a traditional Turkish recipe or completely change the name of the dish.