Ocean waves pose complex challenge in nonlinear science, study says

Ocean waves represent a fundamental problem in nonlinear science, but they have managed to identify the origin of the ‘breaking’ of large waves, according to a study published in the scientific journal Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences (PNAS).

To find the answer, They studied the motion of particles in a fluid such as water in the direction of wave propagation, known as Stokes waves. The study was conducted by a team of scientists from different educational institutions, including the University at Buffalo, the University of Washington and the University of New Mexico, both in the United States.

Continuously propagating surface gravitational waves were discovered by Irish mathematician and physicist George Gabriel Stokes in the 19th century; hence the event was named after him.

Stokes waves They are considered the main structures of ocean waves as they propagate at a constant and periodic speed in the direction of propagation.. In fact, constantly propagating surface gravitational waves can be easily observed if you are on the beach, in an airplane, or on a transatlantic ship.

“A Stokes wave is a surface gravity wave that propagates in the ocean at a constant speed and is spatially periodic in the direction of propagation. We study the instability of large-amplitude gravity waves at the ocean surface,” said Pavel Lushnikov, a University of New Mexico professor and study author. “The highest waves escaped analysis and their dynamics are largely “It remains unexplored, which motivated our work.”

big ocean waves

The instability of waves depends on their slope; thus, the researchers note that for steeper waves, other instabilities resulting from disturbances at the wave crest exceed the growth rate of modulatory instability. Modulational instability, or “Benjamin-Feir instability,” refers to the concept that studies how small ocean waves change over time. In other words, the study suggests that steeper waves may ‘break’ faster than gentler waves.

Using mathematical mapping techniques, scientists have developed a new approach to exploring the driving mechanism behind the breaking of large ocean waves. For scientists, The new study could help better understand the power and dynamics of oceans on planet Earth.

“Global climate dynamics are determined by the interaction between the atmosphere and the oceans… We have found the dominant mechanism of such a fascinating phenomenon as the breaking of large ocean waves. The rapid breaking of the waves we find Explains why long-propagating ocean waves consist of waves of small amplitude”, adds Pavel Lushnikov in an official statement.

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