PFAS in cosmetics: should we be wary of them in Europe?

New Zealand proposed banning substances known as “forever chemicals” from all cosmetics. sold from 2026. These compounds are actually called polyfluoroalkyl (PFAS). They are used in many industries: from textiles to food. However, the use PFAS in cosmetics It’s really unnecessary. It is therefore strange that there are still countries where they are found in very high quantities in products such as cosmetics, shampoos and conditioners.

IN USA, For example, a study was conducted in 2021 that analyzed the presence of PFAS in cosmetics sold in the country, especially in draw up. Of the 231 samples, which were dominated by lipsticks, mascaras, foundations and concealers, these chemical compounds were found in more than half.

In some cases this was not indicated in product labelsThis caused a great stir, which prompted the competent US health authority, the FDA, to reconsider restrictions in this regard. But what is happening in Europe? Are PFAS levels in cosmetics a concern?

The first step is to know them

Before we talk about PFAS in cosmetics, let’s start at the beginning: what is PFAS?

These are chemical compounds formed by many fluorine atoms attached to an alkyl chain. The latter consist of carbon and hydrogen chains, where one of the hydrogen atoms is replaced by another chain, also from carbon atoms to hydrogen atoms.

They are known around 4700 substances known as PFAS, although not all are created equal. Because the bonds that fluorine forms with carbon are so strong, they are difficult to break. This makes them major environmental pollutants as well as health hazards as they can accumulate in the body, eventually causing diseases such as cancer.

The two most well-known and dangerous PFAS are: perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and perfluorooctane sulfonic acid (PFOS). Fortunately, the use of both is highly limited throughout the world. This does not mean that there are other compounds that also need to be controlled, such as PFAS in cosmetics.

Why are PFAS used in cosmetics?

The use of PFAS in cosmetics is because they provide water resistance, help soften the skin, and improve product spread.

It is because of their water resistance that they are easy to find in products waterprooflike some mascaras. But the truth is that there are other compounds known today that have the same properties, but with much lower health risks. This is why New Zealand decided to ban them and why they are much more restricted in other parts of the world than in the United States.

What’s happening in Europe?

The use of PFAS in cosmetics is strictly limited in Europe, although there are some considerations to keep in mind. The European Food and Pharmaceutical Safety Authority (EFSA) sets the maximum dose 4.4 nanograms per kilogram of body weight.

In the case of food, this dose enters directly into the body, but with cosmetics it can penetrate the skin. Additionally, for example in the case of lipstick, part of the product accidentally swallowed.

In recent years, the issue of PFAS in cosmetics has become better understood. This is why several studies have been conducted that have yielded slightly different results. For example, in 2022, a group of Swedish researchers conducted a study in which the presence of PFAS in cosmetics was demonstrated using two different analyses. First of all, the list of cosmetic ingredients on the European market was checked, in which 170 structures which contained at least a bond of two or three fluorine atoms to one carbon atom.

After this the sample 45 cosmetics belonging to 5 different categories.and characterized by total fluoride (TF), extractable organofluorine (EOF), and target PFAS. Thus, annual emissions based on TF and EOF in the European Economic Area range from ~17–38,000 kg F per year and 37–5,100 kg F per year, respectively. Emissions of perfluoroalkylcarboxylic acid (PFCA) were significantly lower.

It is true that the outliers based on TF and EOF are significant. However, they are significantly lower than estimates of PF emissions from washing PFAS-coated fabrics in the European Union. In summary, this study raised the possibility that PFAS in cosmetics produces some environmental pollution, although it is significantly lower than in other industries. Doses have not been analyzed for health concerns. However, they are expected to be within the limits set by EFSA.

What’s happening now with PFAS in cosmetics?

On the other hand, the European Cosmetic Association found in 2023 that PFAS They are not typical cosmetic ingredients.. And also that its presence in products of this type sold in Europe is minimal. All this leads to the conclusion that, at least in Europe, if security controls are carried out properly, there is nothing to fear. Fortunately, more and more substances are known that can replace them, making it much easier to do without them.

In any case, we can always check that the labels do not contain ingredients with the prefix “fluoro-” or the abbreviation “PTFE”. What happened in New Zealand should not make us wary of using cosmetics as there is strict regulation behind it.